Have you ever looked at a towering rock face and wondered, “Just how hard is that to climb?”
Well, friend, that’s where climbing grades come in.
Climbing grades help you figure out the technical difficulty and what to expect on a route. Here are some of the most well-known systems for rock climbing:
- Yosemite Decimal System, or YDS (Sport Climbing)
- French system (Sport Climbing)
- V-Scale (Bouldering)
- Font Scale (Bouldering)
Grades help you understand the difficulty of different climbs and routes. They’re the common language for climbers everywhere.
However, this language isn’t always simple. The grading system for climbs can feel a bit subjective, meaning it’s based on personal feelings or opinions rather than just facts. It can also change quite a bit depending on what you’re climbing, like sport climbing routes with pre-placed bolts or challenging bouldering grades for shorter, powerful moves.
In this guide, we’ll unravel these different climbing grades, explore various grading systems, and look at how they apply to different types of climbing, so you can choose your adventures wisely.
“Grades are important, and that’s why we have to be honest and as precise as possible to make it make sense.”
—Adam Ondra
The Different Climbing Grading Systems
Climbing grades can seem confusing at first because there isn’t just one universal system. Different types of climbing and different regions often use their own methods to rate difficulty.
These systems help climbers communicate how hard a route is and what kind of challenges to expect. Below is a quick comparison of some common grading systems for sport climbing and bouldering. Keep in mind that these are approximate equivalents, as each system has its own nuances.
Now, let’s look at these key grading systems in more detail.
Sport Climbing Grading Systems
Sport climbing grades are designed to measure the difficulty of a single, sustained roped climb from bottom to top. They focus on the physical challenge of the moves, endurance, and technique required to complete the route.
The two most dominant systems in the world are the:
- French system, which is standard in Europe and much of the world, and
- Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) used in North America
French Grading System
The French grading system rose to prominence in Europe during the 1970s and 1980s, coinciding with the rapid evolution of sport climbing. It was developed by European climbers to create a clear and progressive scale for the increasingly difficult sport routes being established, particularly in France.
It is now the dominant system for sport climbing grades worldwide outside of North America. While it is sometimes used for bouldering, the Fontainebleau (Font) scale is far more common for that discipline in Europe.
The French grading system ranges from 1 to 9c+
| Level | French sport |
|---|---|
| Beginner | 1 |
| 2 | |
| 3 | |
| Novice | 4a |
| 4b | |
| 4c | |
| 5a | |
| 5b | |
| Intermediate | 5c |
| 6a | |
| 6a+ | |
| 6b | |
| 6b+ | |
| 6c | |
| Advanced | 6c+ |
| 7a | |
| 7a+ | |
| 7b | |
| 7b+ | |
| 7c | |
| 7c+ | |
| Expert | 8a |
| 8a+ | |
| 8b | |
| 8b+ | |
| 8c | |
| 8c+ | |
| Elite | 9a |
| 9a+ | |
| 9b | |
| 9b+ | |
| 9c |
The French system uses numbers, letters, and a “+” symbol to denote difficulty. The scale starts at 1, with anything below 5c generally considered accessible for intermediate climbers. The grades progress numerically (e.g., 6a, 6b, 6c), and a “+” is added to indicate a route that is harder than the base grade but not quite difficult enough to warrant the next letter (e.g., 6a+ is harder than 6a but easier than 6b).
A climb in the 6a to 6c+ range is considered hard and requires solid strength and technique. The 7a grade marks a significant milestone, signifying a truly severe and powerful climb.
Grades from 7a onwards are reserved for advanced and elite climbers, with routes graded 8a and above representing the highest levels of difficulty, attempted only by the world’s top athletes.
Yosemite Decimal System (YDS)
The Yosemite Decimal System, or YDS, began its development in the early 20th century with the Sierra Club in Yosemite Valley and was later formalized in the 1950s by pioneering climbers like Royal Robbins and Chuck Pratt.
The original system needed more detail for “free climbing” (climbing using only one’s hands and feet, with ropes only for safety). They expanded the “Class 5” category, which was initially open-ended, by adding a decimal point (e.g., 5.7, 5.8, 5.9) to better describe the increasing difficulty. Today, YDS is the main grading system for all roped rock climbing in North America and is frequently compared to the French system.
The YDS grading system ranges from 3 to 5.15d.
| Level | American YDS |
|---|---|
| Beginner | 3–4 |
| 5 | |
| 5.1 | |
| 5.2 | |
| 5.3 | |
| Novice | 5.4 |
| 5.5 | |
| 5.6 | |
| 5.7 | |
| 5.8 | |
| Intermediate | 5.9 |
| 5.10a | |
| 5.10b | |
| 5.10c | |
| 5.10d | |
| 5.11a | |
| 5.11b | |
| Advanced | 5.11c |
| 5.11d | |
| 5.12a | |
| 5.12b | |
| 5.12c | |
| 5.12d | |
| 5.13a | |
| Expert | 5.13b |
| 5.13c | |
| 5.13d | |
| 5.14a | |
| 5.14b | |
| 5.14c | |
| Elite | 5.14d |
| 5.15a | |
| 5.15b | |
| 5.15c | |
| 5.15d |
The YDS scale for roped climbing begins at 5.0 and is, in theory, open-ended, currently reaching up to 5.15d. Grades from 5.0 to 5.7 are typically considered beginner-friendly, requiring basic climbing technique rather than significant strength. The 5.8 and 5.9 range represents a solid intermediate level, where climbs become steeper and holds get smaller.
Once a climber reaches the 5.10 level, grades are subdivided with letters (a, b, c, d) to show smaller increments in difficulty. A 5.10d is noticeably harder than a 5.10a. The 5.10 to 5.12 range is considered advanced to expert, demanding good strength and technique.
Climbs graded 5.13 and above represent the elite and professional levels of the sport, with 5.15 routes being the hardest in the world, achievable by only a handful of top athletes.
Bouldering Grading Systems
Bouldering involves short, powerful climbs called “problems” without the use of ropes. The grading systems for bouldering are therefore distinct from roped climbing, as they focus on the difficulty of just a few intense, technical, and powerful moves, rather than endurance over a long route.
The most commonly used bouldering grading systems are the:
- V-Scale or Hueco Scale, and
- Font Scale or Fontainebleau Scale
V-Scale (Hueco Scale)
The most common system for bouldering grades in North America is the V-Scale. It was developed in the late 1980s by the prominent American boulderer John “Verm” Sherman at the famous bouldering area of Hueco Tanks, Texas. He created the system because existing roped climbing grades didn’t accurately capture the unique physical demands and difficulty of bouldering problems. The V-Scale is now used across North America and many other parts of the world, and it is most often compared to the Font Scale used in Europe.
The V-Scale is a straightforward numerical system, starting with VB for “Beginner” or “Basic.”
The V-Scale grading system ranges from VB to V17.
| Level | American V-Grade |
|---|---|
| Beginner | VB |
| V0− | |
| V0 | |
| V0+ | |
| Novice | V1 |
| V2 | |
| Intermediate | V3 |
| V4 | |
| V5 | |
| Advanced | V6 |
| V7 | |
| V8 | |
| Expert | V9 |
| V10 | |
| V11 | |
| V12 | |
| Elite | V13 |
| V14 | |
| V15 | |
| V16 | |
| V17 |
The numerical grades begin at V0, which is considered an easy problem suitable for those new to the sport. The difficulty increases with the number (V1, V2, V3, and so on). A climber in the V3 to V5 range is typically considered a strong intermediate to advanced boulderer. The V6 to V8 range is where problems become very hard, demanding significant power and technical skill.
Anything from V9 upwards is considered exceptionally difficult and is typically reserved for elite-level boulderers. The scale is open-ended, with the most difficult problems in the world currently rated up to V17.
Font Scale (Fontainebleau Scale)
The Font Scale is the primary grading system for bouldering in Europe and is widely used internationally alongside the V-Scale. It originated in the Fontainebleau forest in France, a historic and world-renowned bouldering destination. As climbers established harder and harder problems in the forest, they needed a way to classify them, leading to the development of this dedicated bouldering scale.
The Font scale looks similar to the French system for sport climbing, using numbers, capital letters (A, B, C), and a “+” symbol.
The Font grading system ranges from 1 to 9A.
| Level | French Font Grade |
|---|---|
| Beginner | 3 |
| 4− | |
| 4 | |
| 4+ | |
| Novice | 5 |
| 5+ | |
| Intermediate | 6A |
| 6A+ | |
| 6B | |
| 6B+ | |
| 6C | |
| 6C+ | |
| Advanced | 7A |
| 7A+ | |
| 7B | |
| 7B+ | |
| Expert | 7C |
| 7C+ | |
| 8A | |
| 8A+ | |
| Elite | 8B |
| 8B+ | |
| 8C | |
| 8C+ | |
| 9A |
It begins with very easy problems graded 1 or 2. The scale progresses similarly to the French roped system, for example, from 6A to 6B to 6C. A “+” is used to denote a small increase in difficulty (e.g., 7A+ is harder than 7A but easier than 7B). A key point of confusion for newcomers is that a Font grade like “7A” is much, much harder than a French sport climbing grade of “7a”—they are completely different scales.
For bouldering, the 6A to 6C+ range requires a decent amount of power and skill. Problems graded 7A range represents a hard and challenging level for most climbers, with the world’s hardest problems currently falling in the 9A range.
Do Grades Really Matter In Climbing?
Yes, but they’re a double-edged sword.
On one hand, grades are an incredibly useful tool. They act as a barometer for personal progress, giving you tangible feedback that fuels motivation and helps you identify specific weaknesses to work on. They also create a shared language within the community, allowing climbers to communicate difficulty, recommend routes, and share in each other’s accomplishments. In this sense, grades provide a valuable structure for setting goals and navigating the sport safely.
However, it’s crucial to remember that grades are not objective facts but a subjective consensus, influenced by the first ascensionist’s style and the climber’s own body type. This subjectivity makes grades a poor basis for comparison with others, which can lead to jealousy and strip the fun from climbing. When chasing numbers becomes the main goal, climbers often ignore beautiful routes that are “too easy” or “too hard,” turning the rich experience of climbing into a simple checklist and leading to burnout.
Ultimately, the healthiest approach is to view grades as a map, not the destination. A map is essential for understanding the terrain and choosing a path, but it is not the journey itself. The real value of climbing lies in the process: the joy of movement, the challenge of problem-solving, and personal growth. Use grades as a guide to enhance your experience, but don’t let them define it.
“Do things because you want to, not to tick a certain grade – unless that is what you really want, and you’re prepared to make the sacrifices that come with.”
—Hayley Mckinney, 5.12 And Beyond
How Routes are Graded
When you see a number next to a rock climbing route, it’s a grade that tells you how difficult it is. This helps climbers pick routes that match their skill level and challenges them without being too hard. The grades aren’t just random; they’re based on several things that make a climb harder or easier.
- Moves: How hard are the individual moves on the climb? Are they big reaches, tiny holds, or require a lot of balance?
- Holds: What kind of holds are there? Are they big and easy to grip, or small, slippery, or oddly shaped?
- Steepness: Is the wall straight up, leaning back (slab), or overhanging? Overhanging climbs are usually harder because you’re fighting gravity more.
- Length: Longer climbs often feel harder because they require more endurance.
- Crux: Most climbs have a “crux,” which is the hardest part. The grade often reflects the difficulty of this specific section.
- Style: Some routes might be more about strength, while others are about technique or flexibility.
How Routesetters Make Harder Routes
Routesetters design routes that push climbers’ limits. To make a route harder, they combine various tricky elements that demand a mix of strength, balance, and smart thinking. It’s not just about tiny holds; it’s about how those holds force you to move in challenging ways.
Here are a couple of ways that routesetters make routes harder:
Smaller and Less Positive Holds
Routesetters will use tiny crimps, slippery slopers, or shallow pockets that are difficult to grip. The less “positive” (meaning, easy to hold onto) a hold is, the more strength and precision it demands from a climber.
Awkward Hold Placement and Orientation
Instead of placing holds where they’re easy to grab, setters might put them in awkward positions, like underclings, gastons, or sidepulls. They might also rotate holds slightly, making them less comfortable and harder to use efficiently.
Demanding Body Positions
Harder boulders often force climbers into uncomfortable or unstable body positions. This might involve deep knee bends, extreme stretches, or movements that make you twist and balance in unusual ways, really challenging your core strength and body awareness.
Dynamic Moves (Dynos)
These are moves where you have to jump or launch yourself from one hold to another, often with no feet on the wall. Dynos require explosive power, good timing, and commitment to execute successfully.
Complex Sequences
A harder problem isn’t just about hard individual moves, but how those moves connect. Routesetters will create sequences that require very specific foot placements, hand switches, or body movements in a certain order. If you mess up one part, the whole sequence falls apart.
Limited or Poor Footholds
Sometimes the handholds might be decent, but the footholds are tiny, slippery, or placed in a way that doesn’t offer much support. This puts more strain on your upper body and forces you to use your feet more precisely.
Overhanging Walls
The steeper the wall, the more you’re fighting gravity. Routesetters use overhanging sections to increase the physical demands, requiring more pulling strength and core tension to stay on the wall.
Mental Puzzles and Beta
Harder problems often have a “puzzle” element. The solution, or “beta,” isn’t obvious, and climbers need to spend time figuring out the right sequence of moves and body positions. Sometimes there’s only one very specific way to do a move.
Ready to Explore the World of Climbing?
Understanding climbing grades is your first step towards navigating the climbing world with more confidence and knowledge. If you’re eager to learn more about climbing, technique, or gear, we’re here to help.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are climbing grades?
Climbing grades are a way to understand the difficulty of different climbs and routes. They act like a common language for climbers to communicate how hard a route is, the challenges to expect, and the commitment involved.
Why do climbing grades seem subjective?
Climbing grades can feel subjective because they are often based on personal feelings or opinions rather than just facts. Factors like a climber’s individual strengths, height, and even who first graded the route can influence the perceived difficulty.
What is the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS)?
The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is the main grading system for roped rock climbing in North America. It was developed by climbers in Yosemite Valley and uses a decimal system, like 5.7 or 5.10a, to describe the technical difficulty of climbs.
How are bouldering problems graded?
Bouldering problems, which are short climbs without ropes, are primarily graded using the V-Scale in North America and the Font Scale in Europe. These systems focus on the power, technique, and difficulty of a few intense moves, which is different from roped climbing grades.
Are sport climbing and trad climbing graded differently for technical difficulty?
For technical difficulty, both sport climbing and traditional (trad) climbing often use the same systems, such as the YDS in North America or French grades in Europe. However, trad climbing sometimes includes an additional protection rating (like PG-13 or R) to indicate the risk involved with placing your own gear.
Is there one single grading system for all types of climbing?
No, there isn’t one universal grading system. Different climbing disciplines, like roped rock climbing and bouldering, use their own specific systems, and different regions often have preferred methods for rating difficulty.